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Wednesday 7 September 2022

Wordsworth House, Cockermouth

I should be upfront and say that (in my rarely humble opinion) unless you are a great fan of Wordsworth's writing then I am not quite sure what the appeal of this particular National Trust property would be. After decades of studying Medieval history my interests have slipped back in time and I am now far more likely to get excited about Mesolithic and Neolithic sites although I will grudgingly make time for Bronze Age studies 😁, so this place is a few thousand years too modern for my tastes. But I was determined to do "holiday things" this week and as energy levels (or lack of them) discounted big fell-walking days I thought that visiting somewhere almost on my doorstep would be a good move.

After Monday's unexpected closure I went in early yesterday and the very helpful and professional reception staff thanked me for returning and handed over a guidebook, free of charge, to say sorry for the day before. I admit after flicking through the book I quietly popped it back on the counter on my way out - they can sell it to someone who is really interested.


















The house is much smaller inside than the street front would imply and I am sure by NT standards it's very well done. I found the kitchen area the most interesting, and was saddened to overhear part of a guides' tour telling visitors that there were no servant quarters, and that the cook/housekeeper who was known to have lived in the house at the same time as Wordsworth had no room of her own and probably slept on a pallet in the kitchen. It seems that 250 years on and not much has changed - it reminded me the dreadful stories of modern slavery which make headlines.











Despite all my grumbling, it was a pleasant hour and I am glad I made the effort but as far as this period of English literature is concerned I am a philistine and the displays were mostly wasted on me.







14 comments:

  1. I understand what you're saying about you'd have to be a Wordsworth fan to be excited about the house but it's nice to look round these places. I particularly like the kitchen it's interesting to see how food was prepared in the olden days. How awful that the cook had to sleep on a pallet in the kitchen. You can tick that one off one of your places to visit list now :)

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    1. Morning Eileen, the kitchen was fascinating but sadly the cellar area is not open and that would have been even more interesting (the sink in the kitchen was far too small to cope with everything that would need to be washed, so there must have been a proper scullery somewhere). As you rightly say, I've ticked it off and don't need to go back.

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  2. Thank you for sharing the photos of somewhere I doubt I'll get to and I always like the kitchens best in NT properties too but really prefer castles and cathedrals. Good to visit places close to home.

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    1. Thanks Sue. This was a relatively small kitchen but still interesting. Like you I have spent hours exploring churches and cathedrals over the years :-)

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  3. As far as the larger houses go - it looks rather spartan, rather boring. I suppose the 'value' of the property is the literary connection, can't imagine the NT taking on a standard house of that vintage without the added attraction of the Wordsworth name making it worthy. I agree that often the kitchen is the most interesting place with all the knickknacks and fripperies required to whip up a meal - our last NT visit was East Riddleston Hall, which had been stripped of all assets before it was handed over. The kitchen had been refurbished with acquired and replicated kitchenalia, found that very interesting.

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    1. Thanks Kate, at least the NT did get their hands on it. In the 1930s the council wanted to clear the site and create a bus station! Local people bought the house and gave it to the NT but you are right, I don't think the Trust would take on a property like this nowadays.

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  4. My Mum was a Wordsworth fan and visiting Dove Cottage in Grasmere was an annual event when we holidayed in the Lakes every year as kids but I don't think we ever made it to the house at Cockermouth.
    I'm a bit of a history whore and embrace all the eras from Ancient Greek to high Victorian. Double fronted Georgian townhouses are my thing - I adore the architecture but I reckon the interior would look a lot better if I lived there! xxx

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    1. I'll whisper a secret - I've been visiting or living in Cumbria for over 30 years and I still have not been to Dove Cottage. If you are a history whore then I am a total hussy, but I like my ancient REALLY old!

      You are right about Georgian architecture though, it is the absolute perfection of proportion (and yes, the Wordsworth House would look stunning if they let you decorate 😉 )

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  5. Oh dear, you sound a little unimpressed. Some things just aren't for us, are they, we don't all like, or are interested in, the same things. I have to say that it does look quite sparsely furnished, but that's probably what it was like if there wasn't even a room for the cook/housekeeper, how sad that she had to sleep on a pallet in the kitchen. I'm always drawn to the kitchens in any fancy house, I know where my station is, no delusions of grandeur here, haha.

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    1. You're right Jo, it just was not the right place for me, but interesting nonetheless. It amuses me that most of us are drawn to the kitchen in old properties.

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  6. Once upon a time I was a lover of Wordsworth but, despite spending time in Cockermouth, I have never been in the house there and I'm not sure that it would have been of interest anyway. I find the servant accommodation situation remarkable.

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    1. You didn't miss much :-) The lack of servant accommodation, no privacy or place for what would have been meagre possessions is very sad, but with the need to keep the kitchen range burning one has to hope the poor woman was warm at night. Upstairs servants' quarters were never heated . . .

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  7. Apologies for the late comment. I think you may have been right in that I didn't miss too much, although the kitchen would have also been my favourite part of the house if I had managed to get in. Thank you for the virtual tour. Xx

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    1. No apology needed Jules, I haven't been around here much myself. Thanks for taking the time to comment, xx

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