I had a brief stop at Dunnet Bay, decided I didn't like the campsite there (It is one I had thought I might stay at one day, so it was good to have been able to have a look) and wondered - not for the first time - how the hell it is that so much sand still gets into the van even when you've changed shoes!
I stopped off at Thurso which has the most wonderful, motorhome friendly parking right at the water's edge. Accosting a total stranger and his dog I asked "surely I need to pay to park here, but I cannot see a machine". The lovely response was "no lassie, we're just glad to have you visit" delivered in the wonderful accent of this part of the world which (to my ear) has a delightful Scandinavian lilt mixed in with the Scottish brogue. Thurso seemed rather nice but at the time I was too stressed up to really appreciate the place, I would like go back.
I have already talked about my walk to St Mary's Chapel and (not) being shot at, but it was a beautiful place and deserves more pictures.
On the right of this picture you can see a small building with a red flag and if you click to enlarge the picture a couple of the "culprits" are visible . . .
The vernacular of grave stones in Caithness and Sutherland is different from that I've seen in other parts of Scotland. Perhaps the wide open skies were getting to me but it felt as if these ornate memorials spoke of deep love and respect. Whilst I did not go searching out cemeteries I seemed to come across a lot of them and enjoyed looking around paying my respects to earlier generations who toughed it out in a wild and unforgiving landscape.
The views were sublime and I spent a lot of time looking across the water towards Orkney. To be honest, even before I "officially" admitted to myself that I'd made a decision about the rest of the holiday I knew this was the closest I was going to be getting.
Such a perfect welcome comment, worth the stop to feel human kindness.
ReplyDeleteYou are so right, it was a moment of much needed kindness on not my best day.
DeleteIt is, indeed, a lovely accent, and what a wonderfully warm welcome.
ReplyDeleteI have had a similar conversation myself, regarding parking charges. It wouldn't happen here :)
Thanks Jules. You are right about parking around here - is it me or are things getting worse? There are places I no longer consider visiting because either there is nowhere to park, or I think the van might get damaged whilst I am away from it.
DeleteOh gosh, his lovely response made me feel quite emotional. I guess as Thurso is pretty close to Scandinavia that would explain the lovely accent.
ReplyDeleteThose gravestones are pretty magnificent aren't they, I think I would have spent far too long admiring them and seeking them out.
Thanks m'dear, sounds silly but the kindness of that old gentleman was so valued on a dificult day.
DeleteThe grave stones were amazing, did you see about William Calder, how very very sad.
I dream of one day being in Scotland, but sure that will only be a dream. So I am enjoying it through your adventures. Ah, to be called lassie!
ReplyDeleteWho knows Sue, maybe one day you will get your wish. But until then I hope you enjoy my little account of the holiday.
DeleteWhat a horrible year 1918 was for poor Mrs Calder. I'd have spent hours in that cemetery, I'm fascinated by them.
ReplyDeleteThe elderly chap sounded like a complete sweetheart. You're right about the accent, I often get confused discerning between Scandis and Highlanders.
I'm reading backwards so I'm off to see what you did previously! xxx
Isn't it sad we know the names of her Mum, Dad and husband, but not Mrs Calder herself. That particular memorial stopped me in my tracks.
DeleteIf you think a Highland accent is close to Scandi, try ringing a few companies on Orkney, the gentle lilt is a delight to the ears.