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Monday 28 August 2023

Caledonian Canal

Final day, beautiful weather, 200 mile drive tomorrow so a plan to just putter around gently.

In an ideal world I would have driven one mile to the Corran Ferry and crossed over to Ardgour - something I have done a dozen times in the past (I even have a scan of 30 year-old photo to prove it) and theoretically a good way to get over this illogical ferry-fear.




This is another essential, lifeline service which is on its last legs thanks to lack of investment and planning (Scottish Government, SNP, yes I am looking you 🤬) so tourists were no longer permitted to use the crossing which had been reserved for essential traffic. If I had been allowed on the ferry I would have driven a few miles around the staggeringly beautiful area, had lunch in a small cafe, put what money I could into the fragile economy and come back the same way. But I did not. Since my holiday the ferry has been taken out of service completely.

Instead I travelled 10 miles or so to Corpach, just past Fort William and famous Neptune's Staircase on the Caledonian Canal. Another amazing build from Thomas Telford - I won't bore you with the details, that is what Google is for.



© Visit Scotland, Airborne Lens


The little community at Banavie have really got themselves organised in respect of welcoming visitors which starts with a massive car park - level, free, shady spots thanks to the trees, play equipment for children, cloudless summit of Ben Nevis in the background. What's not to like?



Same with The Moorings Hotel who have a prime location and a lovely Cafe.
"Trio of West Coast Salmon" . . . just saying!



So that took care of my morning and lunch, and a chance conversation with one of the canal staff meant I decided to stay for a few hours more. I took the time to have a long, slow wander up the tow path and was reminded just how much I love the canalside environment.


























I also got to appreciate an unusal sight, rare enough that I amused myself imagining it was an hallucination - Ben Nevis without cloud:




Eventually my meandering and waiting counted down the clock until the pre-booked afternoon descent:



I've stood next to multi-storey cruise ships on the Solent and they are absolutely massive. Whilst the Lord of the Glens is not quite that big she totally dominates this smaller landscape in a similar way and completely fills each lock - she was modified 20+ years ago specifically to cruise the Caledonian Canal and Inner Isles.

Perhaps the cost of these trips is why the passengers all seemed very snooty and chose to completely ignore some children who were waving, being very polite and just wanted someone to wave back. Thankfully the crew had better manners than the paying customers.










Eventually it was time to leave, which is when I popped into the fossil & crystal museum. Whilst that was a disappointment it did not dimminish my relaxing day canal-side and I went back to Bunree feeling very chilled out and peaceful.





8 comments:

  1. What a shame about the ferry and for the people of Ardgour, missing out on tourist revenue.
    Coming from an area positively riddled with canals (more than Venice, as we're constantly told), the Caledonian Canal is certainly a lot more picturesque than ours although they can keep that hideous cruise ship with the snooty passengers! Neptune's Staircase is incredible, Thomas Telford was a genius.
    That view of Ben Nevis is beyond words. xxx

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    1. The Corran Ferry being out of service will break some tourist-dependent businesses, and think of people who need it for their daily commute?

      I do envy your access to all those canals, and yes, Telford was brilliant. Can you imagine trying to achieve today what he managed with none of our 'clever' technology?

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  2. Thank you so much for sharing your holiday. I've loved all of your beautiful photos and descriptions. Jane

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    1. You are very welcome Jane, glad to have you along for the ride :-)

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  3. The Corran Ferry being out of commission is a (and here I've run out of suitable words). I haven't travelled on it for decades. You have been showing me areas I used to know much better than I know them now. I haven't walked the canal for nearly 20 years. Travel safely tomorrow.

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    1. Graham, the words you are looking for are along the lines of complete and utter bloody disgrace.

      I don’t think there is a single island group who have not been affected and severely disadvantaged this year by the debacle which is ferry management and procurement (or lack thereof).

      But on a happier note I am delighted that you’re enjoying my little window into the land of the brave. The journey home went well, thank you.

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  4. Your photographs really are nourishment for the soul. Especially Ben Nevis. X

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    Replies
    1. Thanks Jules, that means a lot coming from you.

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