There is something weird about Ullapool

Had the most peaceful night at Altnaharra the only downside being constant cloud - with absolutely no lights it would be a marvellous place to look at stars and the night sky.


Another lovely single-track road drive down to Lairg and then a sharp turn right to head west.







I came into the hamlet of Elphin and saw a sign for "Craft Fair" - it would have been rude not to stop. Very lovely break chatting to like-minded people with lots of beautiful knitting and other textile crafts. I always ~want~ to spend money in these places, to put something into the local economy, but am determined not to buy things just for the sake of it. I came out with only these lovely buttons covered in Harris Tweed, no idea what I will do with them but eventually the right project will show up.



More gorgeous dawdling along small roads with outstanding views and life was happy until I got to Ullapool. Don't ask me why but this is not a place I have ever liked - not that anything particularly bad had ever happened here but on every visit the energy of the place is off and I cannot wait to get away. Today was no exception: I had thought to stop at the biggish Tesco, get fuel and some extra food bits. I was crawling along - thankfully at less than 10mph as there was (relatively) a lot of traffic around and the road was busy in both directions on the approach road to the supermarket.

I saw a man on the pavement, just standing there. He looked straight at me/my van and then stepped out in front of me. I hit the brakes and saw him smirk/sneer . . . ambulance chaser? hater of English/tourists? (there are a few of them in the Highlands), struggling with mental difficulties? Whatever the reason I was absolutely convinced his action was deliberate. Who the hell knows but it was a scare and a very near miss, strange things like this are why I won't drive without a dashcam these days. Bollocks to Tesco - that was a message to follow instinct and get the hell out of the town, resolving never to return.

And whilst that was nearly an unhappy accident, as I got close to my next campsite - Kinlochewe - it dawned on me that the destination was a very happy accident. Many years ago, Himself and I had a wonderful holiday in Torridon - one of those trips by which nearly all others have been measured. In my hurry (panic) back in Caithness to book mainland accommodation I had not registered that Kinlochewe is the gateway down to the glorious wilderness which is Loch Torridon.



Yes, you have seen this picture before but what a view - it is the final stretch of road down to the campsite with Loch Maree stretching away in the distance, there is a lovely 'proper' stopping place called the Glen Docherty Viewpoint if ever you're heading that way.




Nice campsite, lovely friendly & helpful Managers, the only downside being its attempt to secure the title of Midge Capital of the west. I suppose the chilly evenings and overnight rain were a good thing because it was nigh on impossible to get out of the van without a hoard of the little bastards flying in and I would not have been able to sit outside. Fortunately I must smell 'wrong' because they don't bite me, they are just incredibly irritating, and once in the van they're stupid enough to immediately settle on the pale van ceiling where they can be swiftly despatched with a damp tissue.




And the views from my pitch - how can you not look at that and give thanks?



Is this the most beautiful dog walk area on any campsite?










Edited later for Jules: Image downloaded from the Nature Scot website